The History of Sake
The history of sake is deeply intertwined with Japan’s rice culture. As rice cultivation spread, sake became embedded in Japanese life, serving as a sacred drink for rituals and a staple in daily life. This document outlines the journey of sake from its origins to the present, highlighting its historical development through various periods.
1.Origins of Sake - Kuchikami Sake and Rituals
Sake’s history dates back to the Yayoi period (300 BC–300 AD), when rice cultivation began in Japan. As rice became established, people developed fermentation methods, and a sacred drink known as “kuchikami sake” (mouth-chewed sake) emerged for use in rituals. In kuchikami sake, shrine maidens chewed rice to convert its starches into sugars using enzymes in their saliva, initiating natural fermentation. This sake played an essential role in strengthening connections with the gods through religious ceremonies.
Additionally, Japan’s ancient texts, the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, mention a sake called Yashiori no Sake, which is said to have been brewed by the deity Susanoo to subdue the eight-headed serpent Yamata no Orochi. This mythical reference highlights the deep connection between sake and Japanese culture.
2.The Nara Period - The Invention of Rice Koji and the Start of Sake Brewing
During the Nara period (710–794), the foundation of modern sake brewing began with the use of rice koji (malted rice). In the Harima Fudoki, a record describes rice offered to the gods that became moldy from rain exposure and subsequently fermented, marking the advent of using koji mold in sake brewing. The imperial court established the Miki no Tsukasa, a brewing office responsible for producing sake for state ceremonies.
Although regulations prohibited commoners from brewing sake, small amounts were sometimes produced for agricultural rituals, symbolizing hopes for a successful harvest. In this period, sake’s role as a sacred drink connecting gods and people became more pronounced.
3.The Heian Period - Formation of Sake Culture
In the Heian period (794–1185), sake production advanced further and became a staple at aristocratic banquets. Within the imperial court, sake was indispensable for ceremonies and rituals, and the Engishiki lists sake-brewing roles, defining sake as a critical component of state ceremonies. This period solidified sake’s role among nobility and the upper classes.
Furthermore, during the Heian period, sake began to spread among the common people, and in villages, local shrines and other institutions were in charge of local sake production. From around this time, the culture of sake brewing took root in various parts of Japan, and it is thought that different sake brewing techniques developed in each region.
4.The Kamakura and Muromachi Periods - The Emergence of Temple Sake and Technological Innovation
During the Kamakura period (1185–1333), temples and monks began brewing sake, leading to the creation of soboshu (temple sake). Monks possessed the knowledge and skills to store and process rice, which enabled them to brew high-quality sake, eventually gaining popularity among the general public.
In the Muromachi period (1336–1573), advancements in sake brewing technology, such as pasteurization (hi-ire) and danjikomi (stepwise addition), improved sake quality and scalability. Pasteurization, a technique used to stabilize alcohol through low-temperature heating, became widespread. Danjikomi, where rice koji and water were added in stages, allowed brewers to control fermentation, enhancing sake quality and expanding its reach nationwide.
Notably, temple-produced sakes such as "Bodaizen" from Shoryaku-ji and "Amanozake" from Kongobu-ji gained high acclaim, drawing nationwide attention to the quality of Japanese sake. With the growth of commerce, sake shops developed in urban areas, establishing an organized distribution network.
5.The Edo Period - Emergence of Local Sake and Commercialization
In the Edo period (1603–1868), the shogunate’s regulation encouraged large-scale sake production, providing stable-quality sake across Japan. Regions rich in water resources, like Nada (Hyogo Prefecture) and Fushimi (Kyoto Prefecture), became renowned for their sake, with brands like “Nada no Ki-ippon” and “Fushimi no Shimizu” becoming popular. Sake from local breweries became known as jizake (local sake), establishing regional identity.
Sake became widely accessible to the public, and establishments like izakayas (taverns) and chayas (teahouses) offered it affordably. Warmed sake, known as kanzake, became common, with “okanban” (sake warmers) preparing it in Edo’s bustling streets. By the Edo period, sake was an integral part of everyday life.
6.Meiji and Taisho Periods - Technological Innovations and Modernization
The Meiji era (1868–1912) brought significant changes to sake production. In 1872, a licensing system for sake production was introduced, formally regulating the industry. Technological advances led to improvements in rice polishing and the adoption of enamel-lined tanks, which enhanced brewing efficiency and quality. Improved rice polishing allowed brewers to remove unwanted outer layers, producing higher-quality sake with fewer impurities.
Enamel-lined tanks made it easier to control fermentation temperatures, leading to a marked improvement in sake quality. Sake varieties such as ginjo-shu and junmai-shu emerged, diversifying the types of sake available. By the late Meiji and Taisho periods, bottling became standard, making storage and transport more convenient.
7.Showa Period - War, Recovery, and Mechanization
In the early Showa period (1926–1989), WWII caused rice shortages, limiting sake production. Synthetic sake was developed as a substitute during wartime, but production resumed post-war, leading to increased consumption during Japan’s economic boom. In the 1960s, the Quality Labeling System was introduced, establishing terms like “junmai-shu” and “honjozo-shu.”
The Showa period also saw increased mechanization and temperature-controlled brewing environments. With more reliable quality, sake became widely available in households, and efficiency improvements in the 1970s helped streamline production.
8.Modern Era - Diversification and Global Expansion
From the Heisei period (1989–2019) to today, sake has diversified further. New styles, including sparkling, cloudy (nigori), and unpasteurized (nama) sake, have been introduced, attracting younger and international audiences. In 1990, new labeling standards were established, making it easier for consumers to understand sake classifications and ingredients.
In recent years, Japanese cuisine’s popularity has boosted sake’s global appeal, with “sake” becoming widely recognized internationally. Demand has risen in markets like the U.S. and Europe, and Japanese breweries are actively expanding overseas, leading to increased exports. Modern sake blends traditional techniques with new styles, adapting to global trends.
9.Conclusion
The history of sake is deeply connected to Japan’s rice culture, lifestyle, and spiritual beliefs. From ancient kuchikami sake to Heian-era court ceremonies, through technological advancements in the Muromachi and Edo periods, and modernization in the Meiji period, sake has continuously evolved. Today, “sake” is celebrated worldwide, representing an integral part of Japanese heritage and culture.
Sake, cherished across generations, will continue to captivate people with its enduring appeal and cultural depth.
