Japanese Wine Regions: Hokkaido

(Hokkaido)

1.Hokkaido - A Renowned Japanese Wine Region Gaining Global Attention

Hokkaido, increasingly recognized as a wine-producing region in Japan, combines a cool climate, unique cultivation conditions, and advanced winemaking techniques. This area produces a variety of wines highly regarded both domestically and internationally. Here, we explore the history, unique characteristics, main grape varieties, and recent trends in Hokkaido’s wine industry, uncovering the appeal of this region.

2.History and Development of Hokkaido Wine

The history of winemaking in Hokkaido dates back to 1876, when wine was first made using wild grapes in Sapporo. However, due to low demand, production halted. In 1960, winemaking resumed in Ikeda Town, Tokachi, establishing Tokachi Wine as Japan’s first municipally operated winery, contributing to local revitalization and laying the foundation for Hokkaido’s wine industry.

In the 1970s, European grape varieties were introduced, with Yoichi Town and other fruit-growing areas starting full-scale cultivation of wine grapes. Since the 2000s, the number of wineries has surged, with over 50 wineries now spread across Hokkaido. These producers vary in scale, from major manufacturers to small family-run wineries, each creating wines with distinct personalities.

3.Characteristics and Climate of Hokkaido Wine

Compared to other wine regions in Japan, Hokkaido is characterized by its cool climate. Located between 42° and 45°N latitude, the region has low humidity, little rainfall, and minimal pest issues, all favorable for winemaking. The region is also less affected by typhoons and the rainy season, allowing for low-pesticide and organic cultivation.

Hokkaido’s unique climate helps preserve grape acidity, essential for creating wines with a sharp, fresh fruitiness. With significant daytime temperature differences, the grapes retain acidity even when fully ripe, yielding wines with a crisp taste. In winter, grapevines are buried under snow to protect them from frost damage. This “snow storage” method softens the cold, protecting the vines and adding to the allure of Hokkaido wines.

4.Main Grape Varieties Grown in Hokkaido

Hokkaido grows grape varieties well-suited to its cool climate. Below are some of the main varieties cultivated in the region:

Kerner

Kerner, a German-born white grape variety created by crossing Trollinger and Riesling, is aromatic with refreshing acidity, used in dry, sweet, and sparkling wines. It’s especially popular in the Yoichi area, producing elegant wines with a cool flavor profile.

Müller-Thurgau

Another German white grape, Müller-Thurgau, is known for its fruity aroma and mild acidity. The cool climate of Hokkaido enhances this grape’s freshness, making it ideal for food-friendly wines best enjoyed young.

Chardonnay

A globally renowned white grape variety, Chardonnay is increasingly cultivated in Hokkaido. From refreshing styles that highlight acidity to rich barrel-aged wines, Chardonnay is versatile, with cultivation expected to continue expanding.

Pinot Noir

Hokkaido’s cool climate is also suited to Pinot Noir, a notoriously delicate variety, which is increasingly grown in the Shiribeshi and Sorachi areas. Hokkaido-grown Pinot Noir is known for its elegant acidity and flavor, receiving high acclaim both domestically and internationally.

Zweigeltrebe

Originally from Austria, this black grape adapts well to Hokkaido’s climate, producing wines with berry aromas and lively acidity. Zweigeltrebe wines range from fresh, light styles to more tannic, robust expressions.

Niagara and Campbell Early

Niagara and Campbell Early, Labrusca varieties, are also cultivated in Hokkaido. Known for their fruity and sweet aromas, these grapes are increasingly used in sparkling and orange wines.

4.Main Wine-Producing Areas in Hokkaido

(Hokkaido)

Shiribeshi Region (Yoichi, Niki, etc.)

The Shiribeshi region, centered around Yoichi and Niki towns, is known as the “Kingdom of Northern Fruits.” Pinot Noir cultivation began in the 1980s in Yoichi, which now produces high-quality wines. Yoichi, the first designated wine district in Hokkaido, has attracted many new wineries, with over 15 established here. Shiribeshi’s climate and soil produce highly regarded wines made from Kerner, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay.

Sorachi Region

The inland Sorachi region, including Urausu Town, Iwamizawa City, and Mikasa City, has seen a rise in grape cultivation. Known for unique wineries like Yamazaki Winery and Kondo Vineyard, each winery pursues its own style. Mixed fermentation (co-fermenting multiple varieties in a single tank) is often used to reflect terroir. Bruce Gutlove of 10R Winery has also pioneered custom crush facilities to support upcoming winemakers.

Southern Hokkaido (Hakodate)

Southern Hokkaido is home to Hakodate Wine, established in 1973, and charismatic producers like Domaine Takahiko. Recently, more wineries have begun planting their own vineyards, drawing attention, particularly with Domaine de Montille’s entry into Hakodate. Many wineries in this area focus on natural and organic wines, which are highly regarded for their quality and uniqueness.

Other Regions (Furano, Tokachi, Eastern Hokkaido)

Furano Wine and Tokachi Wine are municipally run wineries that have strong local roots. In Eastern Hokkaido, Tokachi Wine produces wines using unique varieties like "Yamabuki" and "Seimai," making it a pioneering force in Hokkaido’s wine industry as Japan’s first municipally operated winery.

5.Initiatives and Recent Trends Supporting Hokkaido Wine

GI Hokkaido

In 2018, Hokkaido was designated as a Geographical Indication (GI) region. This label restricts the use of “Hokkaido” to wines made from 100% locally grown grapes, supporting the branding of Hokkaido wine.

Hokkaido Wine Valley Initiative

Launched in 2022, the “Hokkaido Wine Valley Initiative” is a collaboration between the Hokkaido government and Hokkaido University to establish the region as a world-class wine destination. Through the “Hokkaido Wine Platform,” this project supports branding, market expansion, and education at the newly established “Hokkaido Wine Education Center” to strengthen research and training in cultivation, winemaking, and sales.

Wine Tourism

Hokkaido also promotes wine tourism, leveraging its abundant tourism resources. In Yoichi and Niki, events like the “Farm Open Festival” allow visitors to tour wineries and vineyards, enjoying locally produced wine. Wine events are also held in Ikeda Town and the Sorachi area, tying tourism to wine for regional development.

Conclusion

Hokkaido wine, shaped by a cool climate, rich natural environment, and a history of innovation, is increasingly recognized both domestically and internationally. Wine styles that reflect the unique characteristics of regions like Shiribeshi, Sorachi, and Southern Hokkaido are flourishing, and wine tourism is gaining momentum. Hokkaido’s pioneering spirit and abundant natural resources continue to produce distinctive wines, promising further growth for Hokkaido wine in the future.